This is a lengthy recipe. It takes a long time to cook, but much of it is unattended time, and it is totally worth it. You’ll have a great dinner plus sauce to freeze for another dinner or two.
Recently an article in the Washington Post caught my eye, written by Leslie Brenner, the founder of Cooks Without Borders and former Dallas restaurant critic. Also winner of two James Beard awards. During her stint in Texas, she was known to be a vocal and fearless critic who frequently invoked the ire of chefs and restauranteurs alike. During the Covid lockdown, she went on a Bolognese spree, taking inspiration from several classic recipes like Lidia Bastianich's and Marcella Hazan's, both of whom I have relied on in the past for classic flavors. I’ve also enjoyed the version from Anne Burrell. I liked the look of her final product so much I decided to give it a test run. In the end I made a few adjustments that I think made a distinct difference.
Now, this IS an all day recipe. But much of that time is unattended cooking. Also, if you are going to invest so much effort into this sauce, it demands a really good homemade, or at least fresh, store-bought pasta, the wider the noodles the better. Think fettucine or tagliatelle. Splurge.
Since this recipe is such a time sink, it only makes sense to do a large batch and freeze the extra in pint containers. Trust me, the flavor actually seems better after defrosting, seems to taste more concentrated.
Feel free to cut in half if you have no need to put together a fabulous dinner at the drop of a hat in a month or so.
Buy good meat!
Recipe
Ingredients
1 3-4” Parmigiana rind (see Notes)
1/2 lb pancetta, cut into 1/2” cubes
6 large garlic cloves
12 tbsp unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks)
1 very large Spanish onion, cut into chunks
2 large carrots, cut into chunks
2 large celery stalks, cut into chunks
1 large leek, white and light green parts only
2 1/2 lb ground beef
2 lb ground pork
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups white wine
2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
2 cups whole milk
1 small can tomato paste
1 large can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Directions
Combine the pancetta and garlic in a food processor, process into a paste.
In a 5-6 quart Dutch oven, melt 4 tbsp of the butter on medium, then add the paste.
Continue to cook on medium until the fat renders, about 8-10 minutes.
While that renders, place the celery, leeks, carrots, and onion in the food processor. Pulse into a coarse paste.
Add to the pot. Reduce heat to low, stirring often till soft but not brown, about 15 minutes.
Increase heat to medium high. Add the beef and pork, stirring until the meat breaks up thoroughly.
Reduce heat to medium low, stir often.
After 20 minutes, add the tomato paste by clearing a space on the bottom of the pot, then heat the paste for 60 seconds. Stir to combine.
Continue to cook for 30 minutes.
Add the wine, stirring every 5 minutes.
When the liquid has mostly evaporated, stir in the salt and nutmeg, reducing heat to low. Add the milk and stir.
Cook another 10 minutes until milk has mostly evaporated.
Heat 4 cups of the broth, slowly add to the sauce. Stir in the tomato puree.
Reserve the remaining 2 cups of broth to be used while the final simmer takes place. Heat as needed. (see Notes)
Cover the pot, leaving it ajar. Reduce heat to low, and adjust as needed so the sauce does not bubble, but just simmers.
Stir occasionally until thickened and everything is blended together. About 2 hours.
If the sauce starts to look dry, add some of the reserved broth, 1/2 cup at a time.
Add the parmigiana rind and continue to simmer, uncovered, for 1 more hour.
Cut the remaining cold butter into small chunks. Stir into the sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper.
Serve with a great pasta and fresh salad.
Notes
Parmigiana rind: This is why you freeze the rind off the imported Parmigiana.
Adding broth: Once I started adding broth my quantity was so large that I needed to ladle some of the sauce into a second pot and then added broth as needed to both.